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        </div><article class="page single"><h1 class="single-title animated flipInX">岐阜物语——下吕篇</h1><div class="post-meta">
            <div class="post-meta-line"><span class="post-author"><a href="/" title="Author" rel=" author" class="author"><i class="fas fa-user-circle fa-fw"></i>辛载阳</a></span>&nbsp;<span class="post-category">收录于 <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E8%A1%8C/"><i class="far fa-folder fa-fw"></i>旅行</a></span></div>
            <div class="post-meta-line"><i class="far fa-calendar-alt fa-fw"></i>&nbsp;<time datetime="2020-02-18">2020-02-18</time>&nbsp;<i class="fas fa-pencil-alt fa-fw"></i>&nbsp;约 1279 字&nbsp;
                <i class="far fa-clock fa-fw"></i>&nbsp;预计阅读 3 分钟&nbsp;</div>
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            </div><div class="content" id="content"><p>一想到日本的温泉，很多人第一反应想的应该会是箱根，而我去过两次温泉旅馆，一次是东京附近的日光鬼怒川 ，还有一次便是名古屋以北的岐阜下吕。</p>
<p>说起来，当时选择下吕也是极其偶然，本来是打算周末坐新干线去河口湖，然后再去箱根玩，结果天气预报说富士山那边一直天气不怎么好应该不怎么可以看到富士山，于是我们就放弃了这个计划。当时我就想不如去泡泡温泉吧，然后就问了日本的朋友，他们说，距离爱知不远的岐阜有一个下吕温泉你们可以试一试，于是在几乎没有什么提前准备的情况下，我们便在一个台风袭来的周六开启了我们的下吕之行。</p>
<p><figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162519.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162524.jpg"/>
</figure>
</p>
<p>从岐阜站出发，乘坐着高山特急列车沿着飞弹川而上，不久便能到达潜藏在群山之中的温泉乡：下吕。岐阜(Gifu&quot;&gt;}}这座城，在现代日本显得古老而有些落寞，谁能想到这座几乎整个坐落在群山中的城市，曾经是织田信长的龙兴之地。据说岐阜之名，“岐”取自于周朝所兴起的岐山，而“阜”则是源于孔子故里“曲阜”。</p>
<p>虽然飞弹川仅仅是一条不怎么大的河流，但是一路上不时可以看到许多的小型水坝，所谓河流往往孕育着文明，莫过于此了。
<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162527.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162530.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162533.jpg"/>
</figure>
</p>
<p>到达下吕站时，可以看到鳞次栉比的屋子沿着蜿蜒的飞弹川而建，不远处便是绵延的丛山。</p>
<p>走过桥便是下吕的主街了，这里的街道沿着山势，很容易让人有一种类似置身重庆的感觉。可能是因为是台风的缘故，主街上甚至都没有什么人，如果拐进两侧的街道，更是让人生出寂寥之感。
<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162536.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162539.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162541.jpg"/>
</figure>

很快便能走到了旅馆门前，门口那块牌子上所写的 Xiao Feiyu 様，又让我想起了两年前和老罗去日光的时候温泉旅馆门口的 Xiao 様，真是日月如梭。
<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162547.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162544.jpg"/>
</figure>
</p>
<p>旅馆的晚餐是下午的六点，于是放下行李我们便撑起雨伞出门沿着山路而行。霎那间，想起了《小森林》中市子在骑着自行车在雨中从集市回家的场景。就像我看这部电影的时候所想的一样，我们心中我向往的，可能并不是那种幽静而年复一年的生活，其实，我们本难以离开平日的繁忙与车水马龙，只是，在像下吕这样的小城里，我们能感受到生活在细水流年中的恬静与美好。</p>
<p><figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162550.jpg"/>
</figure>

晚餐是典型的怀石料理，这顿其实和我后来在京都的居酒屋里所尝到的怀石料理类似，却和在日光所吃到的有很大的不同——一言以蔽之，关西的怀石料理，重于形式。席地而坐，配上一杯乌梅酒，确是别样的体验。</p>
<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162553.jpg"/>
</figure>

<p>我对这座旅馆最深刻的印象便是其独特的温泉设计，在室外的部分用鹅卵石砌成，而恰好一半露天。可能正是恰逢雨天，沐浴在温泉里，雨水顺着屋檐滴下，热气氤氲，别有一番风味。</p>
<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162556.jpg"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图是从booking上找的</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>

<p>雨淅淅沥沥地下了一夜，第二天清晨天却出人意料地放晴了。推开窗，便是满眼的山色，却与雨时大不相同，不由得想起苏子的诗句——</p>
<p>“水光潋滟晴方好，山色空蒙雨亦奇”</p>
<p><figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162559.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162601.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162604.jpg"/>
</figure>
</p>
<p>离开下吕，登上前往高山的列车，又想起了《小森林》里那个迎着风骑车的女孩还有自己小的时候在乡下和爷爷奶奶从地里摘下一个新熟的西红柿，咬上一口，便觉得是整个夏天。<strong>或许，不时被激起的记忆里的那种更古不变的憧憬与爱恋，便是学会认认真真的去体验生活的美好，即便是一餐细心做好的午餐，抑或是一次勃然起兴的出游——就像千年前的老夫子所慨叹的那样——</strong></p>
<p><strong>莫春者，春服既成，冠者五六人，童子六七人，浴乎沂，风乎舞雩，咏而归。</strong></p>
<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/weixin_20200623162610.jpg"/>
</figure>

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